The Best Drive You’ve Never Heard Of: Santa Fe to Ghost Ranch
I remember the exact moment I fell in love for the first time. I was in the parking lot of my high school, in my mom’s white Ford Taurus station wagon. It was early winter, and the mid-afternoon sun was low and shining through the branches of bare trees. Check out https://www.vabeachpavingpros.com/ for more details.
I could take you to the exact spot right now–the exact spot in which the car was parked when she handed me the keys and let me step on the gas, alone. I turned the wheel, face tilted into the open window, cold air in my hair. I felt powerful; I felt in control. To get the car ready for such an adventure, one must first get it looked by mechanics who may have been from sites like toptradeschools.com.
When I tell you that I love to drive, believe me. I still follow the texting and driving law in utah even when driving in other states.
Since that day in late 1995, I’ve driven many roads. And I’ve loved a great many of them. Skyline Drive. The Cabot Trail. The Taconic Parkway, 81 South from the Mason Dixon line to Charlottesville–even Lakeshore Drive during rush hour. Most recently, I spent one of the best days of my life driving the Pacific Coast Highway from San Francisco to Carmel and back, solo. I didn’t think that anything could match that joy–and almost nothing could.
Almost nothing.
I didn’t particularly want to go to the Georgia O’Keefe museum. But on a recent trip to Santa Fe, I felt compelled. After all, with that many vagina-looking flower paintings right there, did I not have an obligation to view them? So I went. And I learned two things:
1. Georgia O’Keefe really, really did not like being associated with vaginas.
2. Georgia O’Keefe lived a great many places in her life , but she chose to spend her last years in an area about an hour north of Santa Fe, at a place called Ghost Ranch.
It is important to note that I’d spent that same morning at the Palace of the Governors, which houses the newly-built New Mexico History Museum. And that The New Mexico History Museum features sweeping, epic scenes of New Mexico’s natural beauty. I saw photo after photo of orange and yellow rock and thought: I need to be in that.
So the next day I got up early and drove north out of Santa Fe towards Ghost Ranch.
The drive from Santa Fe to Ghost Ranch is stupid beautiful. There’s really no other way to describe it. Have you seen the American desert? Have you seen the Rocky Mountains? No? Well, you can do both of those things at once on this drive. You can watch the shadows of clouds pass over red rocks, backed by snow-capped peaks so high that at first you will think they are clouds. Every bend in the road brings a new vista. Ever hear of the Route 84 Drive in Northern New Mexico? No? That’s ok. Because I hadn’t either. But now we both know. Check it out…
But wait! There’s more! Once you arrive at Ghost Ranch, you’ll actually get to, you know, be in that gorgeous scenery. I stupidly pulled over on the drive toward the ranch to take some photos, because I thought it was really beautiful…
…but that’s because I had not yet taken the three mile hike to Chimney Rock. I’m going to stop using words now and just continue to show you photos of the hike…
The phrase you are looking for is ‘shut up’.
Ghost Ranch is technically a retreat center–they offer spiritual programs and lodging for the participants of said programs. But they also have a museum, a restaurant, and a visitor’s center where you can pay $3 per person for the ability to spend the day on the grounds, exploring one or more of the three trails on the property. I did the Chimney Rock trail. I assumed it was the most popular because it was the shortest. I was wrong. It is the most popular because it is smack-me-in-the-face amazing. There are also trail rides and bus tours of the property; when I return in the future, I’m getting on a horse. Yes. Yes I am. Just as soon as I learn to ride.
You’d think that after such an amazing day–an epic drive north through the red hills and a three mile hike up to the top of a mesa–I’d be disappointed with the drive home. You, my friend, would be wrong. Because I discovered something on the drive back to Santa Fe–the drive is just as beautiful (yet different) in the other direction (see photo to the right, which I took at an random bend in the road). And with the sun at a different angle, the colors completely change. Oh–and you have a much better view of the Sangre de Christo Mountains on the way home. I’m glad I took the advice to bring an rv battery along in case we need emergency power. It’s convenience cannot be overstated.
The phrase you are looking for is ‘shut up’.
Even with a stop at Dandy Burger, a little drive-in hamburger stand in Espanola so tiny it does not even have a website–and which I highly recommend for a post-hike green chile cheeseburger–I made it back to Santa Fe before dusk, with just enough time to stroll around Canyon Road and take a million more photos in the golden light of the setting sun. My feet–in my unprepared-for-a-hike cowboy boots–were exhausted. But my heart was happy and my memory card was full.
Ghost Ranch is located in Abiquiu, New Mexico, about 60 miles north of Santa Fe off of Route 84. If sixty miles, seems far, please refer to the photos in the post above. And also know that the speed limit is, like, 75–and you’ll likely be the only person on the road for dozens of miles in any direction. Even if you do not love to drive as much as I love to drive, you will love this drive. I promise.
LOVE your description and use of the words “stupid” and “shut up”! Honestly, as someone who fell in love at first sight in Santa Fe last month, I agree with everything you said. I was only there for a day (I actually took the train from Albuquerque $7 round trip). Before I even pulled into the station I was planning my return trip! It really is THAT awesome!! Thanks for sharing your experience. I also loved the Georgia O’Keefe Museum and it fueled a desire in me to learn more about her and New Mexico in general. They are both beautiful 🙂
Oddly, I did not love the o’keefe museum. But I’m glad I went because it led me to Ghost Ranch.
I know you did this awhile back but can you recall the actual routes? Use said 84 to Ghost Ranch but what was the return back to Santa Fe? Gorgeous photos!!!
Sadly, I don’t recall. I know we did the same route back to Santa Fe as we took to Ghost Ranch (it was beautiful in both directions!)
just google map it. Santa fe to Abiquiu, New Mexico
Beautiful, beautiful photos. And you know I don’t even love road trips.
Thanks! And yes, I’m well aware. I actually think of you every time I’m in scary traffic–you know, the kind that’s bumper to bumper but still going REALLY FAST? And I’m like ‘ah, this is why Gray hates driving!’
These pictures are AWESOME. What kind of camera do you use?
Thanks! It’s a Nikon D3000. But the little photos are just iPhone pics. Really, it isn’t the camera. It is the light and the color of New Mexico. Stunning.
Come back and see us Tracy! Those of us that are lucky enough to live here know what you mean. I am getting a NIKON D3000!
Wait! No! Don’t do that! There are better, newer models (and I wish I could do HDR but can not; no bracketing or some such…I just recall getting to that point in ‘learning how to use the camera’ and being like ‘well shucks, I can’t do that with this camera…”) I do love Nikon though. Perhaps a slightly newer, higher end model.
Also: I will certainly be back! I occasionally work in Albuquerque, and any time I have some extra time on either end of a work trip, I’m there. You are very fortunate to live in such a beautiful place. But I have to ask–how far is the drive to the nearest grocery store???!???
I love driving in the American Southwest! Beauty around every corner!
Agreed! I can’t wait to go back!
I’ll be driving from San Antonio to here next Thursday (here being ‘right over the border from Reynosa, Mexico). I’ll let you know if that drive is as stunning. I’ve been told it is most certainly NOT.
Wonderful pics…. was there years ago when it first opened and we had day camp training ….later my wife attended a writers conference… lots of others I’ve known who shared time. I still have a tiny plastic vile with cross sections of the sands of Ghost Ranch as a reminder.
Thanks!
I’d LOVE to attend a writing conference there. What an inspiring setting!
Go to ghostranch.org and view the schedule for all the seminars/workshops, etc., they offer — an astonishing variety. I never got farther than the main road on the ranch, but spent a week there every June for 16 years.
I would LOVE to do a workshop at Ghost Ranch. That would be AMAZING!!!
There’s a reason that artists come to NM and that Georgia O’Keeffe fell in love with Abiquiu and eventually moved there full-time. The landscape is truly stunning. We love driving to O’Keeffe country. We love the Ghost Ranch Lancscape Tour.
Yes–as soon as I arrived, I understood why it was a haven for artists. Especially visual artists–the light is amazing.
Next time I’m there, I’m doing a tour for sure. I’d like to stay for a few days. Or, you know, forever. 😉
I’m not sure I remember my very first drive up to Ghost Ranch but it was in the 1970’s to a conference there. Lovely, very different from Pacific Northwest, scenery.
I do remember the drive the last time I was up there. The van taking us to the ranch picked up a “crazy lady” who insisted we stop at Walmart so she could buy a birthday cake. There was no place to park a van with a trailer for luggage so we kept circling the parking lot wondering if she would ever come out of the store. Pretty soon it got hilarious. Wonderful conference with class with Marilynne Robinson, a favorite writer of mine.
There’s a Walmart on the way? That was the one thing that struck me–the total absence of ANYTHING ELSE for miles around. Where do people buy, say, food? Or, more importantly, wine???
The Walmart is in Espanola. There’s a small grocery/general store in Abiquiu (Bode’s) on Hwy 84, with lots of traffic from river rafters. O’Keeffe’s Abiquiu home, studio, and gardens are open for tours. Purchase tickets in building on Hwy 84 next to Abiquiu Inn. Her home at Ghost Ranch is not open to tours, but there’s a tour available there to some of the sites of her paintings. Both tours are well worth the price.
Thank you for this post! I had been confused over seeing okeeffe’s home in Abiquiu vs. seeing Ghost Ranch — there seems to perhaps be some animosity between the two places given neither’ website talks about the other’s!!! Very glad we went to Ghost Ranch and hiked Chimney Rock. The fee now in 2016 is $5 per person — still a steal.
Great inspiration! I have a 7 year old who I homeschool and I think I’d like to take a drive to the Sourhwest! I spent a month stranded at Ghost Ranch area with 5 Bostonian college peers in the early 90’s. I heard it’s completely overpopulated now and suppose lost charm and magic but us living in San Fran I suppose can put up with it!
Stranded? I’d love to hear that story!
And while this trip was two years ago, I can confidently say that it was most definitely not overpopulated! It was one of the most desolate places I’ve ever been. We were quite alone on the hike, and alone on most of the drive as well. Great choice for a homeschool (roadschool?) road trip!
Just took this drive 2 weeks ago. It was stunning. I look forward to checking out your website!
Took the same exact drive last summer (haha, even have the same photo shot of the old homestead at the beginning of Ghost Ranch). You have NOT exaggerated one bit! Stunnimg scenery!!
Right? It’s SO BEAUTIFUL! And no one talks about it. Except me, apparently! Ha!
You can stay there overnight if they have an empty room, like a B&B, only meals are at specific times, cafeteria style. (Breakfast is too early.) Your photos are exquisite. Have only seen the sheep grazing 2x in 16 years. Are your prints for sale??
Thanks for the compliment. And no, I don’t really consider myself a photographer; I’m happy to send you the original photo if I can find it!
I am so fortunate that we are planning a spiritual gathering at Ghost Ranch next autumn and Tracy, your photos insprire me so very much to dust off the ol’ camera that never gets used any longer.